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The upscale mall location and contemporary dining room might suggest a forward-looking Thai restaurant—but the truth is more complex. While modern touches abound, husband-and-wife duo Jason Bailey and Bongkoch Satongun are traditionalists who value lucid flavour profiles over new-fangled techniques or showy presentation.
Rating : 16/20
Watermelon with ground salmon, crispy shallots and roasted galangal powder is one of several entrees based on old royal or aristocratic recipes. It wins you over on account of its complex yet harmonious blend of constrasting ingredients, not its looks. The same goes for the majority of dishes on the compact menu, including smoky southern yellow curry with red spanner crab sourced from the Gulf of Thailand. Hummingbird flowers, Thai samphire and turmeric add to its distinctiveness. Served on the bone, slow-cooked sous vide duck is a little messy to eat, but its flavours of northern Thai pepper and a slightly sour som jid fruit and star anise sauce command the attention. Paste’s exotic desserts taste as good as they sound—think pumpkin and wild honey pudding and lemongrass and white turmeric panna cotta with local fruits and a scoop of som sa ice cream.
Rating : 35/40
The well-curated drinks list includes Asian-inspired cocktails, a wealth of aromatic white wines and plenty of pinot noirs for red lovers. Pairings advice is forthcoming.
Rating : 18/20
Rating : 17/20