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Decades of immersion in old cookbooks and Thai streetfood have given Australian David Thompson an almost peerless command of the balance of hot, sour, sweet and salty that comprise a winning Thai spread. Regularly touted as one of Asia’s best restaurants, Nahm offers a more expansive palette of flavours than the norm (fiery, smoky, tart).
Rating : 18/20
The canape of shredded pork and lobster with ginger and Thai citron is a bold opener, each mouthful served in a betel leaf. Mains—salads, soups, relishes, curries and stir-fried, steamed or grilled dishes—are served family-style, all at once, with a view to sharing. Grilled beef salad with mint and lemongrass has a refreshing flavour that screams for attention. A popular signature, coconut and turmeric crab curry with hints of calamansi lime, is smooth and creamy and works as a counterpoint to spicier dishes. Cured pork with tomato and fiddlehead ferns, one of many stir-fry dishes, has a complex character shaped by tender morsels of meat and slightly bitter greens. Desserts often take their cue from the streets. The miniaturised kanom bueng, sweet wafers with poached persimmon and golden duck egg noodles, hits the sweet spot.
Rating : 36/20
A lot of attention has gone into curating a wine list that sits well with the strong, fresh flavours of Thompson’s food. A broad range includes some Thai wines. Beers, fruit smoothies and Thai-inspired cocktails are also available.
Rating : 17/20
Rating : 17/20