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US-trained chef Ton Thitid Tassanakajohn takes pride in sourcing seasonal bounty from ethical local producers. Pared-down yet packed full of flavours and surprising textures, his eye-catching modern Thai creations consistently hit the high notes.
Rating : 17/20
Opt for the four-course menu touching on cold, from the forest and sea, from the ranch and sin (dessert). A trio of amuse bouche that includes a creme fraiche-like tomato soup and a spoon of pineapple jelly topped with caramelised nuts kicks things off. The must-try starter is a deconstructed Blumental-worthy take on summer delicacy khao chae: shrimp and pork balls, grated radish and salted fish served alongside a scoop of jasmine ice cream. Sea options include sustainable ocean fish served with roasted pumpkin puree or large, tomalley-rich river prawn with poached egg and a sumptuous chu chee curry. Of the ranch dishes, pork belly with chamuang sauce, winged bean salad and half an egg filled with fermented fish puree is beautifully constructed. Sin’s highlights include a choux cream filled with lime cinnamon custard and pandan cake with yet more jasmine tea ice cream.
Rating : 39/40
Chef Ton is a trained sommelier and the provenance of the 80 label-strong wine list and good value wine pairing options reflect this. As well as red, white, rose, sparkling and sweet wines, there are sake and craft beer options.
Rating : 18/20
Rating : 18/20