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Bleeding-edge molecular meets whimsy and storytelling in Gaggan Anand’s tasting menu, which is now so ambitious in sweep that it encompasses strong Japanese influences as well as Indian ones. The world-famous chef is still happiest when in his lab—book the chef’s table, if you can, to see him and his team at work while he opines about food, celebrity and anything on his mind.
Rating : 18/20
Gaggan’s ever-evolving tasting menu is 25 courses of culinary showmanship, each bite inspired by some formative memory or recent experience. Most eating is done by hand, as in India, and the wordless emoji menu means your tongue is on tenterhooks all evening. Bites may include sphericalised yoghurt bombs, chilli bonbons and an unlikely blend of coriander and green apple snow. Inventive nods to his homeland, like the charcoal black prawn amritsari, alternate with Japanese reimaginings such as sea urchin flavour ice cream and tomato matcha soup. Presentation is consistently outlandish but dishes slowly build in size; the meal peaks with crab curry chawanmushi, or egg custard, and winds down with a typically madcap take on a Rajasthani delicacy, ghewar.
Rating : 39/40
Three sommeliers roam the whitewashed house, dispensing recommendations from the formidable wine list spanning both Old World and New. Innovative and classic cocktails are also offered.
Rating : 19/20
Rating : 19/20