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Celebrity chef Gaggan Anand has come far from his humble Kolkata origins—as has the food at his eponymous, waiting list-only restaurant. Each year the menu becomes less legibly Indian and more reflective of the stamps in the outspoken iconoclast’s passport, although the El Bulli-inspired molecular techniques, rapid-fire service and showmanship remain.
Rating : 18/20
The chef’s table offers the full, personality-led Gaggan experience, complete with expletives and displays of audacious culinary artistry. Guests begin their meal the same way: by trying to decipher a list of 25 emojis, each corresponding to a dish on the tasting menu. The meticulously constructed bites arrive randomly without cutlery. So you may be gingerly handling a delicate sea urchin and turnip taco one minute; licking a plate of brain curry or breaking open a steaming goat bao the next. A homage to India–the spherical yoghurt explosion–remains, but otherwise the menu is in constant flux. From first bite to last Gaggan is hell-bent on defying expectations, showcasing the latest ingredients on his radar, no matter how outlandish results might seem. Critics and curry lovers be damned.
Rating : 38/40
Throughout the restaurant are several sommeliers, each a fount of knowledge. A wine pairing based on their intimate knowledge of the menu and pan-Indian flavours is available, as are innovative and classic cocktails.
Rating : 19/20
Rating : 19/20