A pop-up of a 1930s Parisian style restaurant in the midst of Nana’s hustle and bustle sounds like a place we don’t want to miss out on. Brasserie Cordonnier gives us a taste of what it’s like to wander the streets of Paris and dine in a traditional French brasserie. The new baby of Bangkok’s gastronomic scene charms diners with its humorous name—cordonnier meaning cobbler—and its eclectic décor exhibiting shoemaking equipment and walls of haute couture shoes. Inspired by the literature, art, music and cinema of the Lost Generation, the 1920s and 1930s were a time for young people to rediscover the meaning of joie de vivre after the Great War.
Driven by Bangkok’s famed F&B giant, Soho Hospitality, Brasserie Cordonnier upholds two main characteristics of France: fashion and food. Behind the visionary culinary creations is executive chef Clement Hernandez—former sous chef at J’AIME—who has a passion for serving up authentic French delicacies.
To start, try creamy foie gras terrine served with luscious grape chutney, fresh grapes and toasted brioche. Plump Burgundy snails cooked with garlic butter and topped with parsley sauce also make a flavourful opening, while a serving of classic cheesy French onion soup highlights a naturally sweet broth. For a lighter alternative, chilled ratatouille features the trio of juicy tomatoes, caramelised sunflower seeds and refreshing mint leaves. For mains, glazed carrots, bacon bits and mushrooms complement succulent beef bourguignon. An even heartier option is the crispy yet tender pork belly with glazed baby potatoes, spring onions and onion puree. End the meal with our favourite, apple tarte tatin featuring a delicate combination of subtly sweet red apples, crisp puff pastry and cinnamon parfait.
The drinks menu certainly proves that Cordonnier is intent on providing the complete French dining experience. With ideas brought to life by mixologist Davide Sambo, the fusion of traditional and modern recipes produces a new breed of cocktails inspired by the eruption of art, music and fashion in the 1920s and 1930s. ‘Sole Rouge’, a tribute to Christian Louboutin and his unforgettable red sole heels, is layered with vodka, D.O.M. Benedectine, Chartreuse, orange juice, Prosecco and peach foam. ‘With Love from Monet’ pays homage to the Roaring Twenties with rye whisky, sweet vermouth, Cynar, Campari and lemon thyme paste. It’ll bring out the flapper in you!
Brasserie Cordonnier might make you want to live and grow old in the food and fashion capital of the world but it also ensures foodies don’t have to go all the way to Europe for a taste of the City of Light. As Francophile Ernest Hemingway once wrote, ‘…Paris is a moveable feast.’
Brasserie Cordonnier, 33/29-30 Sukhumvit soi 11 (Chaiyos), Klong Toey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok, Thailand 10110; Opened every day from 6pm till midnight; 0-2045-4343 or 09-4970-8599