Previously located above a Mini showroom on Ekamai where it shared space with The Garret bistro, recently opened Fuzio Café is tucked away at the back of the second floor of J Avenue on Thonglor. It is well worth seeking out. Industrial-chic interiors designed by Begray give the restaurant a laid-back feel. It is a good spot for lunch, dinner and afternoon coffee or sundowners after work.
According to owner Sukolkarn Thamchuanviriya, the new iteration of Fuzio has deliberately moved away from the fine dining offered by its predecessor to serve Italian comfort food and a handful of Thai classics. The clientele are largely loyal patrons from the old outlet, those who have heard of the restaurant by word of mouth and family and friends. For award-winning executive chef Prasert Chanphum, a 20-year veteran of Italian and French kitchens and a member of Club Masterchef Thailand, the goal is clear.
“We don’t want the food to be fussy or intimidating. Our focus is on quality, which is why we import the best produce from around the world.” It certainly makes for very good casual dining at surprisingly sensible price points—a three-course meal for two can be had for around 1,500 baht.
There is an extensive choice of appetisers on the menu, which are ideal for sharing. A dish of salmon rillettes with toasted crostini makes for a fine opening. The coarse pate-like spread is full of the fresh flavours of smoked and poached salmon, chives and paprika and is well complemented by a squeeze of lemon.
Also excellent is a crispy tortilla pizza with ham and mushrooms, one of six different toppings. An overthrow from Fuzio’s fine dining days is the ever-popular black and white truffle cream soup. Served in a coffee cup, it is rich but not overbearing. Another fine starter is crabmeat pistachio cream cheese with avocado aioli. Reminiscent of Mexican cuisine, it has a pleasing texture and a lovely spicy kick. In terms of pasta do try the Japanese-inspired spaghetti mentaiko with shrimps, roe, garlic and chilli.
When it comes to the main course Fuzio prides itself on its steaks. A selection is included in the a la carte menu but there is also a dedicated beef menu and diners can even select their preferred cut from an array displayed in a chiller. The 300-gram Australian Black Angus rib eye is particularly good. Served with a choice of Thai chilli sauce or a rich red wine reduction, it is grilled to tender pink perfection.
Better for sharing is the grass-fed Bass Strait prime rib enjoyed with a choice of side dishes or the huge Australian wagyu tomahawk steak. A salad of rocket and roasted Japanese pumpkin with honey and caramelised almonds is the perfect accompaniment. The restaurant has a considered and, again, surprisingly inexpensive wine list of predominantly Italian reds, some available by the glass.
Make sure you leave room for dessert. There are a number of Italian classics on the menu including tiramisu and panna cotta but highly recommended is semi-frozen red wine-poached pear granita. Light and refreshing on the palate, it is served with shaved ice and flavoured with cinnamon. If you prefer something richer then try the dark chocolate praline. Made to a fudge-like consistency with 70 per cent dark chocolate, milk and cream, it is infused with walnut, pecan and almond and makes for a decadent end to a fine meal.
2nd flr J Avenue, Thonglor Soi 15
Open daily, 11am-10pm (11pm Fri-Sat)